Caye Caulker - Belize

FIRST DAY ON THE ISLAND
It was a relatively early start on Thursday morning as we were dropped at the San Pedro – Caye Caulker water taxi. Our boat left at 10.30am and this was a great way to travel, a large speedboat ripping through the clear blue ocean of Belize. Half an hour later we arrived in Caye Caulker, a very remote island in this country and a place where time has almost stood still. No commercialism at all, this place is proper island living and despite our slight reservations on arrival, proved to be one of our favourite places so far on our trip. We were collected at the jetty by the manager of our apartment, a Canadian guy called Kim. We were then ushered to a taxi which was only an extended golf cart – there are no cars on this island (or none that we saw). The island also consists of only 3 streets, aptly named front, middle, and end streets. We were advised to catch the taxi as it was apparently a 20 minute drive to our apartment. Having taken 5 minutes to load up our bags we hit the road, only to stop 90 seconds later. We all thought he had stopped to collect keys so imagine our surprise when he said we had arrived! We were charged $25 Belizean (US$13) for a ride that was no more than 30 meters, the most expensive taxi we have ever caught in our lives. They clearly saw us coming ;-)

After a frustrating start we were finally shown into our apartment and quickly sorted out rooms (Cath, you would have loved this place, brightly coloured stripes all over!!) and made ourselves at home. Then it was time to draw some cash for our bill, which involved Leise and I hopping on Kim’s golf cart (me standing on the back – no luxury here) to go and draw cash at the only bank on the island. The streets are all potholed sand roads, which makes it interesting dodging puddles when it rains. With the formalities out of the way it was time to explore the island, and we started with a nice stroll along the beach looking for somewhere to eat. We settled on the Bamboo Grill just in time for a typical island downpour, short but brutal. The food was really good and nice and cheap, which was much appreciated after the costly San Pedro. We then took a leisurely walk at island pace to see the rest of the village, which took all of 15 minutes. We soon hit the end of the island and came across the Lazy Lizard Bar and Grill, which sits right on the water – in fact some of the chairs and tables are submerged in the water, and not by design but past geological activity (the area sits on a sink hole and is slowly making it’s way into the ocean). By now it was late afternoon and we headed back to rest before hitting the Sports Bar for a quiz night later.

We arrived at the Barrier Reef Sports Bar around 7.30pm for our quiz night, and knowing how competitive some of us are it was clear we meant business. We tucked into some dinner which included amazing prawns and not so amazing ribs – seem to keep making that mistake! We also met up with a new friend, a Canadian guy Kasey who had caught the water taxi with us that morning and who was quickly added to our team. After a night of much drinking and scratching of heads, our team called “The no-hopers” were pipped by a single point into second place. Not bad for a bunch of travellers who know very little about US sports and trivia. After high fives all round and 30 Belizean dollars off our bill it was time to head home and retire.

A GREAT DAY AT THE LAZY LIZARD BAR
Expecting the worst we ended up waking to a stunning day on Saturday. Lara the early bird had already gone to the Lazy Lizard Bar so we rounded up the troops and set off to join her. What a stunning setting it was, an old dilapidated building on the very edge of the island housed the bar, while on the roof some local DJ’s played typical Caribbean music with a beat while all the sun worshippers stretched out on the peer. The water was crystal clear and warm so there was plenty of swimming to cool down, along with plenty of beers. We were joined by Kasey and also bumped into a couple of fellow South Africans that Leise knew – Phoebe and Cassie. Talk about a small world! Anyway we all enjoyed the gorgeous sunshine and music while relaxing and plunging in every now and again – this really was paradise. After a great afternoon we strolled back through the village to our apartment for a relaxing nap and to head out for dinner.

It was Saturday night and time for a big night out. We started at our apartment and Kasey, Phoebe, and Cassie all popped in for drinks and a chat before heading out for dinner. We then made our way to The Jolly Roger, two shacks posing as a restaurant but with some of the best food on the island. It had to be good, the owner Roger must have weighed at least 200 kilograms! There was a group sitting drinking who he quickly chased out the restaurant as we were there to eat – much to our embarrassment. After making our apologies we sat down and were treated to 2 barbecued lobster tails, garlic bread, mash potatoes, and 2 rum punches – all for US$10, what a bargain! It was a great meal (as long as you’re not too bothered about health and safety) and with our hunger sorted we headed out for a few drinks.

Kasey then took us to a bar he had scoped called I and I, a reggae bar on the other side of the island. When we arrived we helped ourselves to rum and cokes, margaritas and beers. The bar had swings hanging from the roof for it’s chairs which was a funky feature, and after a quick dance for the girls we headed up to the roof for some cool air. It wasn’t long before the drinking games started and we proceeded to indulge more and more. Just after midnight we decided to head back to our apartment and have a few drinks on our roof terrace. This was a great end to the night as we enjoyed a beautiful warm evening on the roof, watching the moon and stars and talking rubbish. By 2.30am and after much waffle it was time to hit the sack.

RELAXING SUNDAY
Sunday was another beautiful day, so much for any remnants of that hurricane. Lara, Leise and Georgie went for a boat ride to see the Manatees, a highly endangered species of mammals only found in 3 places in the world, including Belize. V and I were up for a more relaxed afternoon, and after a healthy lie in made our way back to our favourite place, The Lazy Lizard Bar. The peer was rammed but we managed to find a spot and stretched out to soak up some sun – it was a scorcher! We spent most of the afternoon there including plenty of swimming in the sea before making our way back into town for lunch at The Sandbox Cafe. Then it was time to meet up with our returning colleagues and make our way to Frenchies Diving for a briefing ahead of our Blue Hole dive the next day. We were measured up for all our kit which was then loaded onto the boat for an early start the next morning.

We made our way back home to dose up on mosquito spray and to drop off some washing at the Laundromat where they do all the washing for you, pretty lazy but hey time was short! Then it was time for dinner and we decided to try out Rosie’s Grill, where lobster and fish are barbecued right on the street while you sit down in the open restaurant. We all picked the grouper fish fillet, and Georgie went for the Red Snapper which was the whole fish, head and all, tossed on the braai. The food was outstanding, fresh and tasty – Georgie rated her fish the best she had ever tasted and it was hard to disagree, top quality! After that we made our way to the Barrier Reef Sports Bar for their Sunday night quiz, and met up with Kasey and the girls. This had to be a much more peaceful evening as we were not allowed to drink any alcohol ahead of the dive the next day. We did tuck into some local milkshakes which were far too icy and one the only disappointment on the island. The quiz didn’t go that will this time either, and we were battered into the lower places – must have been the hangovers ;-). It was then time for bed ahead of our 4.45am wakeup call.

A DAY OF DIVING
We were woken up early and after quick showers all round made our way to Frenchies Diving centre where we were due at 5.30am. They kindly provided some coffee and sticky buns, before we boarded and started the 2 hour journey to The Blue Hole. It was a packed boat of divers, with 20 people signed up and the nerves were tangible. Everyone was also pretty tired so there wasn’t much chat on the boat either, but after a smooth trip we arrived and it was finally time...! After a quick briefing about our dive, including all the do’s and dont’s, all divers were encouraged to go and pee in the sea before putting on their wetsuits and more than half quickly jumped in to relieve themselves. Quite a sight for those of us still on the boat, and I wasn’t keen to jump in on that side once we were ready! With the toilet break out of the way we all geared up and were split into 2 groups of 10 for the dive. Our group was up first and Leise, Lara and I jumped in. Then it was time to descend and we made our way 40 meters down into the hole. About halfway down one of the dive masters turned to me and pointed down below at something. I looked down while swimming and about 15 meters below me was a large Reef Shark, an unbelievable feeling although a little daunting too – I wasn’t exactly sure we should be swimming down in his direction but on we went.

The Blue Hole was originally above sea level, and is actually a sink hole which dragged this piece of earth into the sea. It stretches 300 meters across and over 125 meters deep. On the descent into the hole you come across massive stalactite rock formations, some of them up to 15 meters or taller, and you swim in between these formations – not something I fancied before the dive but once in the water you are simply attracted to them. Our final depth was 40 meters and you are given just 8 minutes to swim at this level, so the dive itself is short but hugely impressive and you are always looking out the corner of your eye for any sharks in close proximity. Lara was lucky enough to suffer a little nitrogen narcosis, where you feel a bit drunk – it only lasted a minute but she loved it! We then made a slow ascent to the surface to swim along the coral and enjoy the beautiful fish while making a 10 minute safety stop 5 meters under the boat. The total dive time was only 25 minutes, but one of the best experiences you could wish for. Our second dive was a 20 meter dive near the island of Half Moon Caye, and involved swimming along the coral and enjoying the stunning fish of all shapes and colours, as well as a few stingrays. V, Lara, Shaun and I swam in one of the groups while Georgie enjoyed the snorkelling along the surface

It was then time for lunch on the boat, which consisted of rice and beans, with a local curried chicken dish and some salad – it was really good. We got more of an opportunity to relax and mingle with our fellow divers who came from all over the world, including a guy from California who insisted on strutting around the boat (and diving) in his Stars and Stripes Speedo much to the crews amusement! There’s always one ;-) After lunch we were dropped off on Half Moon Cuay Island to enjoy the nature reserve and watch the endangered birds in their natural habitat. This island is stunning, with no inhabitants apart from the conservation people taking turns to stay there. After an hour of enjoying another piece of paradise it was time to board the boat and make our way to our final dive spot called the Aquarium. This was also a dive along the coral and was more enjoyable than the last dive, with more fish and colourful plants along the way. After an hour down there we surfaced and boarded the boat, ready to make the 2 hour return trip back to Caye Caulker. By this time everyone was pretty exhausted and clamoured to find a space big enough to lie down for a snooze. About an hour into the journey some of us were woken with excited screams and were then treated to an aquatic show by a school of dolphins swimming around our boat. They were jumping and diving, and showing off for us – absolutely amazing and what a treat!

After a long day we finally arrived back on shore around 4.30pm and made our way home. Despite the big plans we had for a large night on our last evening, we were all too shattered and so just met up with Cassie and Phoebe for dinner at Sobre Las Olas restaurant where we were seated right on the beach. We tucked into all sorts of seafood and curries and yet again the food was excellent. A couple of beers later and we said our farewells to the girls before strolling home. We met up quickly with Kasey to say goodbye and then it was bed time as we needed to be up early to catch our 7.30am water taxi to Belize City and then Guatemala.

And so our time in Caye Caulker, and Belize came to an end, much to our disappointment – this really is paradise and we could easily have stayed here another week at least! Here are our highlights and lowlights:
- The beautiful ocean, crystal clear and warm enough to swim in all day – absolutely stunning
- The people, proper island style living and they are so friendly
- The seafood, which is mostly barbecued and is excellent every time
- The Blue Hole and the first dives of our travels – amazing!
- The most expensive taxi ride ever!